Fashion
Menswear trends: Spring/Summer 2023: Lounge Lizards
Perhaps as an antidote to two years of sweats and tee shirts, European menswear designers suggested an upgrade to indoor-outdoor dressing, showing pajama-esque silhouettes, including billowy pants and matching print tops with shorts. Here are the ten ‘best in show’.
Amiri – Paris
Mike Amiri’s past designs are rooted in jeanswear but his SS23 collection was expanded to include a variety of styles. There were several matching top and bottom combinations. Look 9 was composed of a striped shirt tucked into banded shorts, both with the Amiri logo, shown under a sleek blue overcoat.
Bianca Saunders – Paris
The British-Jamaican designer showed several fluid looking designs, including several pairs of matching sets in a silky finish fabric. Look 12 was composed of a brown top with an asymmetric draped front over brown pants.
Carlota Barrera – London
A trip to Cuba in December 2021 was the starting point for Spanish-born designer Carlota Barrera’s spring/ summer 2023 collection. This included references to the traditional ‘guayabera’ shirt. Look 10 was a pajama-inspired long sleeved blue and white striped shirt and matching Bermuda shorts, shown with socks and loafers.
Dhruv Kapoor – Milan
Kapoor made history as the first Indian designer to show during Milan’s men’s fashion week. Look 14 was composed of an oversized blue pinstripe shirt with a drawstring waist and matching thigh length shorts. Both were embellished with decals.
Dries van Noten – Paris
Dries Van Noten said he’d been researching male subcultures for inspiration for SS23. ‘Garage scene grifters, cowboys, sleepy dreamers,’ he said. Hence some billowy pajama type styles. For look 11, the designer showed full striped pants with an extra wide elastic waistband, a white tank top and black zip front jacket.
Family First – Milan
For this season the brand presented a collection themed ‘I Love Milano,’ a fusion of Italian sartorial know-how with contemporary American style. There were several prints alluding to the Sicilian summer. For example, Look 11 was a cream silk shirt and pants, both embellished with a placed print of citrus fruit.
Federico Cina – Milan
For the SS23 collection, Federico Cina’s design was inspired by a trip to his Italian home town, and a color story influenced by the nearby Cervia salt pans. Look 32 included a loose fit shirt in blue, yellow, white and brown stripes contrasted with pants in white, beige and blue.
Emporio Armani – Milan
Returning to the runway for the first time in a few seasons, the SS23 collection was filled with many of Armani’s traditional design codes, like relaxed, layered suiting, while also experimenting with fresh prints and colors. Look 91 showed a relaxed drawstring-waist linen pant in an ivory, green and rust wide stripe pant.
Givenchy -Paris
In amongst the logo heavy sweats, ‘gorpcore’ styles and relaxed suiting, Matthew Williams showed a couple of pajama-inspired shirt and shorts combinations. For look 38 he showed double layered pinstriped shirts and shorts with the Givenchy logo in a tiny all-over print; a matching cap and gloves completed the look.
Rhude – ParisWith a lean towards luxury, Rhuigi Villaseñor elevated his streetwear vision in a collection entitled ‘New Money.’ The runway show stayed true to its West Coast roots, with a variety of relaxed silhouettes. Look 30 consisted of black and burgundy striped pajamas with white piping and a contrasting striped robe. Culled from Fashion United.
Fashion
Kanye West, Yeezy ordered to pay $300,000 to snubbed creator
As another day passes, another Kanye West saga has unravelled. The rapper-turned-designer and his brand Yeezy have now been ordered to pay over $300,000 to New York-based creative Katelyn Mooney after failing to attend a court session.
A default judgement was filed in Mooney’s favour at Manhattan Supreme Court when no legal representative for West or his brand showed up or responded to the court papers.
In her lawsuit, Mooney initially claimed that West and Yeezy owed her over $300,000 in damages and unpaid invoices after failing to fully pay her for a photoshoot she was hired to produce in September.
The artist was appointed to create imagery for Yeezy’s new SHDZ sunglasses collection for 110,000 dollars, of which she claimed she had only received $15,000.
In her complaint, Mooney, who is a freelancer, said the snub forced her to take out “a significant loan and max out her credit cards” so she could cover her bills, calling West’s behaviour “exploitative conduct.”
The news comes days after it was revealed that Adidas was confronted with a lawsuit from its investors regarding its past dealings with the controversial figure.
The complaint alleged that executives for the sportswear giant knew about West’s troubling conduct long before an anonymous letter from employees revealed a series of “problematic behaviour” they encountered during his time as a collaborator for the brand.
It has also been reported by NBC News that West and Yeezy are facing further issues in regards to more than $600,000 of unpaid tax debts, dating back to 2021.
The media outlet added that it had uncovered 17 government-imposed liens in California against three of West’s businesses, including a charity in his name.
Fashion
Ellen MacArthur Foundation launches database for circular startups
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation is beginning the roll out of the full version of its circular startup database, designed to help businesses explore startups and drive the acceleration of the circular economy.
On ‘The Circular Startup Index’, 500 brands that are a part of the foundation’s community are already featured across a range of sectors, industries and geographies, each one selected for incorporating one or more principles of the circular economy into their propositions, as stated in a release.
According to the organisation, the index was created to address the challenge behind financing and scaling circular business models, with the initiative hoping to help facilitate innovation through capital.
Commenting on the launch, Ella Hedley, project manager, startups, at the foundation, said: “Designing a circular future requires radical innovation to rethink how our economy works.
“Thousands of circular startups are already on the case. But they need more support and investment.
“So we created the Circular Startup Index to create visibility of the breadth of circular startups on the market and help businesses discover suitable circular solutions.”
Fashion
Report: Handbag market to grow by $14.1bn from 2021 to 2027
Technology research and advisory company Technavio released a report on the growth of the global handbag market, pointing out its estimated increase in value by 14.11 billion US dollars from 2022 to 2027 and a CAGR of 4.3% and highlighting key findings on this development.
The handbag market 2023 to 2027 is split up into three segments by Technavio – type, distribution channel and geography. Types of handbags include leather, fabric and others, distribution takes place online and offline, and locations concern Asia Pacific (APAC), North America, Europe, South America and Middle East and Africa.
Vendors of the market include Burberry, Dolce and Gabbana and Chanel, to name a few, offering a wide range of bags in different sizes from tote bags, to cross body, and shoulder bags.
Over the past several years, there has been an upsurge in demand for leather handbags with various textures, qualities, and feels. This element will fuel the segment’s growth during the course of the forecast.
A key driver of this development is the personalisation and customisation of luxury handbags, which has heavily emerged as a new trend over the past five years, particularly in western Europe and North America.
The product’s aesthetics are improved through embroidery, straps and buckles, or the inclusion of a name tag, which at the same time increases its value in comparison to standard products.
The report revealed the customers’ increased preference to shop duty-free at airports for high end and luxury items, such as handbags, during the forecast period. Last-minute shopping or external factors such as delays and early check-ins further push the growth of the market. This uprising trend results in renovations of retail outlets within airports to enable this shopping experience.
The research company explains that strengthening the foothold in the fast-growing segments while maintaining the positions in the slow-growing ones is a key action for brands in this context.
However, Technavio also discloses how stringent government regulations will play a major role in terms of challenges for the growth of the market during the forecast period.
Due to a number of associations and government departments enforcing these rules, for example in Europe and particularly in Germany, parties operating within the tanning industry should adapt and consider ethical production, synthetic use and reuse.
This factor, alongside fluctuating operational costs and the measures needed to reduce waste and protect the environment which make up almost 5 percent of manufacturer’s total costs, might impede the growth of the handbag market.
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