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Menswear trends:  Spring/Summer 2023: Lounge Lizards

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Perhaps as an antidote to two years of sweats and tee shirts, European menswear designers suggested an upgrade to indoor-outdoor dressing, showing pajama-esque silhouettes, including billowy pants and matching print tops with shorts. Here are the ten ‘best in show’.

Amiri – Paris

Mike Amiri’s past designs are rooted in jeanswear but his SS23 collection was expanded to include a variety of styles. There were several matching top and bottom combinations. Look 9 was composed of a striped shirt tucked into banded shorts, both with the Amiri logo, shown under a sleek blue overcoat.

Bianca Saunders – Paris

The British-Jamaican designer showed several fluid looking designs, including several pairs of matching sets in a silky finish fabric. Look 12 was composed of a brown top with an asymmetric draped front over brown pants.

Carlota Barrera – London

A trip to Cuba in December 2021 was the starting point for Spanish-born designer Carlota Barrera’s spring/ summer 2023 collection. This included references to the traditional ‘guayabera’ shirt. Look 10 was a pajama-inspired long sleeved blue and white striped shirt and matching Bermuda shorts, shown with socks and loafers.

Dhruv Kapoor – Milan

Kapoor made history as the first Indian designer to show during Milan’s men’s fashion week. Look 14 was composed of an oversized blue pinstripe shirt with a drawstring waist and matching thigh length shorts. Both were embellished with decals.

Dries van Noten – Paris

Dries Van Noten said he’d been researching male subcultures for inspiration for SS23. ‘Garage scene grifters, cowboys, sleepy dreamers,’ he said. Hence some billowy pajama type styles. For look 11, the designer showed full striped pants with an extra wide elastic waistband, a white tank top and black zip front jacket.

Family First – Milan

For this season the brand presented a collection themed ‘I Love Milano,’ a fusion of Italian sartorial know-how with contemporary American style. There were several prints alluding to the Sicilian summer. For example, Look 11 was a cream silk shirt and pants, both embellished with a placed print of citrus fruit.

Federico Cina – Milan

For the SS23 collection, Federico Cina’s design was inspired by a trip to his Italian home town, and a color story influenced by the nearby Cervia salt pans. Look 32 included a loose fit shirt in blue, yellow, white and brown stripes contrasted with pants in white, beige and blue.

Emporio Armani – Milan

Returning to the runway for the first time in a few seasons, the SS23 collection was filled with many of Armani’s traditional design codes, like relaxed, layered suiting, while also experimenting with fresh prints and colors. Look 91 showed a relaxed drawstring-waist linen pant in an ivory, green and rust wide stripe pant.

Givenchy -Paris

In amongst the logo heavy sweats, ‘gorpcore’ styles and relaxed suiting, Matthew Williams showed a couple of pajama-inspired shirt and shorts combinations. For look 38 he showed double layered pinstriped shirts and shorts with the Givenchy logo in a tiny all-over print; a matching cap and gloves completed the look.

Rhude – ParisWith a lean towards luxury, Rhuigi Villaseñor elevated his streetwear vision in a collection entitled ‘New Money.’ The runway show stayed true to its West Coast roots, with a variety of relaxed silhouettes. Look 30 consisted of black and burgundy striped pajamas with white piping and a contrasting striped robe. Culled from Fashion United.

 

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Fashion

Pinterest announces trend predictions for 2024

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As the latest trends seem to move a million miles per minute, Pinterest stays ahead of the curve—the lifestyle tech company just revealed its predictions for 2024 trends across beauty, fashion, and more.

Based on an analysis of various search algorithms generated by visitors on the platform, Pinterest’s near-500 million users provide insights on what is currently garnering mass interest, and what will soon be on the radar across multi-generational consumers prior to its rise.

And the platform has seldom been wrong. Among the highlighted trends forecasted for 2023 was the rise of ultra-femininity in fashion, which has since manifested itself in the whimsical bows, lacy motifs, and airy styles seen across the runways at fashion week and social media trends.

This coming year, the feminine frenzy will continue on with “Bow Stacking.” Thanks to a 190 percent and 180 percent uptick in searches like “Bow outfit” and “Bow necklace,” 2024 will continue the love for the frilly detail—à la popular brands like Sandy Liang—but in unbridled maximalist fashion, adorning the accessory onto hair, shoes, bags, and overall looks.

On the side of masculine fashion, Pinterest noted the emergence of “Eclectic Grandpa” in 2024 chiefly among Gen Z and boomers, who will “embrace grandpacore and bring eccentric and expressive elements for the ages to their wardrobes,” per the report. Encompassing retro staples and layered cardigans in ‘70s-esque hues, this nostalgic style was increasingly explored by 130 percent.

An appreciation for all things vintage also makes its way into upcycling trends, showing a desire in consumers to get crafty and explore not just secondhand clothing, but second hand materials for themselves. Similar to the DIY fad of the 2010s, “Give a Scrap” looks to be the upcoming fashion project for boomers and Gen Xers alike. With searches like “zero waste sewing patterns” and “leftover fabric” both up 80 percent, consumers are gravitating toward habits that drive sustainability in their personal approach to fashion.

Between metal-toned jewellery and avant-garde fashion, metallic colours and creations are slated to be a highly sought-after material in 2024. “Metallics will make their way into the mainstream in 2024 as Gen Z and Millennials trade in their neutrals for something a bit more hardcore,” wrote Pinterest in the report. Popular pursuits like “metal corset” and “silver necklaces layered” indicate growing interest in metal hardware, but the textured shades are also being explored in aluminium furniture and metallic nail art.

The “Make it Big” trend also further bolsters the growth of metals, as shoppers are looking toward bolder, chunkier silhouettes in accessories and hairstyles alike, suggested by the prevalence of inquiries like “chunky hoops” and “sculptural jewellery.”

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AI-driven shopping app Yaysay secures $10.3m in funding

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Yaysay, a shopping app utilising artificial intelligence (AI) to provide a personalised gamified experience, has secured 10.3 million dollars in funding in order to launch its Beta mode into the market.

The app, co-founded by industry veterans from Casper, Gilt Groupe and Stitch Fix, aims to make off-price shopping a “five-minute daily habit”, offering a “sustainable solution for excess inventory in the retail industry”.

Using AI, the platform provides users with a personalised fashion feed that draws inspiration from social media and other apps while blending the concept of competition and gaming into one shopping experience.

Each day, the feed will refresh its offering of discounts on sought-after brands, such as Chloé, Acne Studios, Gannie and Loewe, in a design aiming to act as a new treasure hunt while also “breathing new life into overstock inventory”.

In a release, Yaysay CEO, Lindsay Ferstandig, the former CEO of Stitch Fix, said: “While mobile shopping is convenient, it is generally uninspiring for brands and consumers alike. With Yaysay, we are creating an elevated brand experience that brings the joy back to shopping, transforming deals from the most covetable brands into addictive bites of fun.”

The Beta version of Yaysay is now live and comes alongside a waitlist which will allow consumers to gain an early glimpse into the platform within the coming weeks.

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Pepco issues ‘downward revision’ to forecast reorganises management

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European retail chain Pepco is continuing to experience a downward trend in its financials, as revenues for August came in lower than anticipated and are worsening in September, with negative like-for-like sales and weaker than expected performance from new stores.

The group, which operates UK-based Poundland, has been attempting to initiate an expansion strategy in the region, with plans to open a slew of refreshed stores and grow its fashion business, among other categories.

However, it appears that such efforts have not been enough to avoid the slower rate of sales in its core markets of Central and Eastern Europe (CEE), with gross margins also not bringing in the recovery expected and record warm weather dampening the demand for its autumn/winter collections.

As a result, Pepco said it made a “further downward revision” to its full year 2023 forecast, while also now forecasting to deliver underlying EBITDA of around 750 million euros.

The group has also taken “immediate and decisive” actions to shuffle its management team in light of the underperformance and the recent departure of its outgoing CEO.

Strategic review adopted to address costs Anand Patel, the managing director of the Pepco business, will step down immediately and will be replaced by managing director of Poundland, Barry Williams. Meanwhile, chief operating officer of Poundland, Austin Cooke, will step into the role of managing director for the retailer.

A group executive committee has also been formed in order to establish a strategy review across the group to address costs and initiatives that could generate “appropriate returns in the near term” and accelerate transformation.

In a release, executive chairman Andy Bondy said: “We remain confident in the opportunity of building Europe’s leading variety discount retailer offering great value to consumers across a range of FMCG, clothing and general merchandise products.

“However, it is clear that we need to refocus on delivering for our customers in our core business while delivering more measured growth. We need to improve profitability and cash generation in our established business alongside a more targeted growth plan in markets where we have an existing presence.”

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